Frequently Asked Questions

The amount of money you get for junking a car in Florida is over the place. Some people get $200. Some people get close to $1,000. It really depends on the functioning car parts and car's weight.

About 110 to 165 pounds of aluminum roughly. Prices of aluminum move around a lot week by week so do not hold us to the number of pounds of aluminum. A cars worth more anyway since its not just aluminum in there.

Junking and scrapping refer to the same process. The part that actually matters is who buys it. We'll pick it up for free and pay you for parts, not just the metal.

Most of the time, you need a title to junk a car in Florida. But if you've lost it, give us a ring. We'll either buy it without a title or figure out a way around it for junking a car in Florida.

Copper's usually top of the list. Catalytic converters too. Prices shift a lot though, so just ask us what today looks like before you sell anywhere.

Between $1,000 and $1,600 approximately. Clean cans and where you sell them changes the math a bit. Bring it in and we'll weigh it for you right then.

Whoever isn't trying to flip it on a lot for profit, basically. We deal straight in scrap and parts. No markup hiding in there.

It would be around $400 to $800. Clean copper without any coating gets you the better end of that. Ask us before you sell, since rates move.

You should sell it instead of fixing it. That's really the short answer. We take cars like that all the time, no repairs needed from you.

Ocala, Lakeland – places like that would generally cost less than either Orlando or Miami. It is still better to check out a couple of offers anyway.

Ocala and Lakeland work for a lot of people on that budget. Parts of the Panhandle too, if you're not set on beach access. Rent's usually the biggest chunk of it.

Funny enough, weird colors like purple or orange barely get touched. White and black get stolen way more since they're easy to resell. Good alarm system still beats color though.

The Villages and Ocala come up a lot for this one. Smaller towns just stretch further. Housing's usually what decides how comfortable that number feels.

In case you need your vehicle to have a luxurious appearance, select those which are darker, like matte black, dark green, or navy color. They make your car appear luxurious. But please understand that we won't care about that when paying you.

Late in the year works well, November or December especially. Dealers are trying to hit their yearly numbers. End of any month can help too, honestly.

People bring up the Yugo GV a lot. Pontiac Aztek gets its fair share of hate too. Doesn't mean it's worthless though, we'd still buy either one for scrap.

Pretty simple setup. Walk in, find the car, pull the part yourself. You pay for what you actually take. Cars are arranged or organized by make and model so it's easier to find stuff.

Usually, yeah. Lenders just want it gone fast, so the price reflects that. Downside is you barely get any history on what you're buying.

Newer ones, mostly, the kind with chip keys built in. Recent Toyotas and Hondas are a good example. Older cars without that tech are just easier pickings.

Whoever's actually pricing off real scrap and parts value instead of guessing. That's us. Condition and current metal prices set the number.

Look around for a sticker or a little paint dot on the car. Usually near a window. Tucked under the car. Not sure what you're seeing? A mechanic can tell you fast about the car.

In scrap weight, most cars run 2,000 to 4,000 pounds. That's already worth a few hundred bucks just from the metal. Toss in decent parts and it climbs from there.

No warranty that's the one for buying a repossessed car. Records are usually missing too for repossessed cars.. Most auctions won't let you even sit in it before bidding let alone drive it for repossessed cars.

Commission's typically 20 to 25% of whatever profit the dealer made. Could land anywhere from a few hundred bucks to over a grand. Bonuses shift it around too.

Not really, prices are set. You can ask about deals though, sometimes there's something going on.

Bring gloves, bring tools.

Wear old clothes, closed-toe shoes, nothing fancy. These yards get dirty fast, no way around it.

Check what's in stock online first so you're not wasting a trip. It would save your time.

Put 20% down.

Finance the car for 3 years

Keep all car costs under 8% of your monthly income.

It's the usual pattern when a loan goes bad. 30 days late, you get a call. 60 days, it gets serious. 90 days, repossession's often already happening.

People mean carbon monoxide when they say that. Comes in through a cracked exhaust or worn seal, no smell, no warning. Feel off while driving? Get it checked wisely.

To be very honest, not too much. Maybe $100 to $300. Cheap cars just don't leave much room for commission.

Wear old clothes, closed-toe shoes, nothing fancy. These yards get dirty fast, no way around it. Bring your own gloves too.

Getting rushed to sign before you've even looked things over. That's a big one. Vague pricing or dodging a history report request is another.